Full Hearts, Empty Kegs:…

Full Hearts, Empty Kegs:…

BOSTON – Before you even saw them, the sounds of celebration filled the air. On Sunday, thousands of Scotland fans made their way through the streets to Fenway Park, their march accompanied by the lively sounds of bagpipes. While Red Sox fans have had little to celebrate this season, the enthusiasm of Scotland’s supporters brought a welcome distraction from their team’s impending defeat to the Texas Rangers.

This vibrant gathering was dubbed “Scotland Day.” The Red Sox mascot, Wally, donned a kilt, and the in-house organist played a medley of Scottish anthems after a week of music preparation. It was a lively celebration, fitting for a city that had already experienced numerous festivities in recent days.

Following the national anthem, as the American flag hung over the Green Monster, the Scottish fans filled the stands, singing “Flower of Scotland.” While it didn’t quite match the vocal intensity of the night before in Foxborough during Scotland’s World Cup opener, it inspired awe among die-hard Red Sox fans, many of whom paused to applaud or snap photos. Some tried to do both.

The presence of Scotland’s fans has dominated conversation in Boston. Thousands journeyed across the Atlantic to witness their men’s team compete in the World Cup for the first time in 28 years.


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While Scotland has never advanced past the group stages in World Cup history, their victory over Haiti marked only their fifth World Cup win and first since 1990. Hope and excitement filled the air, though the anticipation was tinged with uncertainty reflected in the fans’ responses as they arrived in the U.S.

On Friday, news circulated about the beer shortage on flights heading to Boston. Scotland fan James shared tales from breakfast, recounting their trip through Amsterdam with his father, Richard. “We waited 28 years for this—my dad’s 72; you never know if this will be the last,” he reflected. Despite flight delays due to engine trouble, they eventually made it, though the beer was quickly consumed.

The Boston Globe captured the excitement on its front page, detailing packed bars alive with Scottish songs and tales reminiscent of the fan anthem that showcased Scotland’s journey during their Euro 2024 and World Cup qualifying campaigns. You could hear tunes celebrating players like “Super” John McGinn, alongside the phrase, “No Scotland, No Party.”

Boston resident Mike Morrison recounted being awakened on June 11 by the sound of bagpipes, as fans rented a house opposite his, decorating it with flags. He welcomed them for a barbecue, which caught the attention of Helen McDonald, who graciously obtained a ticket for the Scotland match in return for hosting the fans.

On Friday evening, a fundraising event for the Street Soccer Scotland charity was hosted in Boston. Building on its origins from the 1998 World Cup, the gathering was a vibrant celebration with notable attendees like Sir Alex Ferguson, Sir Sean Connery, and several Scottish actors.

When I spoke to broadcaster Gordon Smart on Sunday, he was hoarse from singing, notably captured on video while perched halfway up a lamppost earlier that day. “We couldn’t afford to go to France in ’98; it was just too pricey,” he shared, recounting the various life changes over the years including his evolving family. “But watching Scotland play Haiti was worth every single moment.”

This leads to the question: why have so many traveled to Boston? What’s the draw?

“I think it’s the escapism of it,” he reflected. “Life can be quite challenging, and there’s a unique spirit here that you can only truly appreciate by being a part of it—wherever you go, you feel welcome, meeting Scots from diverse locations. It’s a wonderful gathering. You make lifelong friends on these trips.”

“I often hear stories of Tartan Army fans who never returned from Mexico ’86 and settled in jungles in Belize. Such tales were once thought to be exaggerated, but they’re real. Marriages happen off the back of these trips to Boston.”

“It’s an opportunity to escape from daily routines and sadness,” he noted. “There’s a certain joy embodied here. The camaraderie transcends generations, bringing together young fans with their grandparents. Everyone shares stories from tournaments long past, now it’s our turn.”

Many fans from the Scottish diaspora traveled for various reasons, including ex-pats coming from Australia. Craig Ferguson, 22, walked over 3,000 miles from Los Angeles in a kilt, raising funds for SAMH (Scottish Action for Mental Health), finishing his challenge in Boston Common with a warm welcome from fellow Scots. By the time Sunday’s game rolled around, he was busy accommodating photo requests, quickly launching a campaign to recover his lost kilt afterward.


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Chef Gordon Ramsay visits the Scotland team in Boston

Inside Fenway Park, Leo and his family sported special edition shirts combining the Red Sox and Scotland logos, given free to fans who traveled for the match. Back in 1996, Leo and his father had signed up for Scotland’s fan group hoping for tickets to the 1998 World Cup but missed out. “We thought it was alright back then—simply four years to the next chance in 2002,” he recalled. After 28 years, they refused to miss this opportunity.

Colin, 68, leaned against the bar in a downtown Boston hotel late Sunday night, enjoying a double whiskey with a generous block of ice. We tried to unpack the reasons behind the pilgrimage Scotland fans make, as every fan we’ve spoken to echoed the sentiment that they “just have to be here.”

In Scotland, the domestic league is typically dominated by Rangers or Celtic, with few clubs managing to claim silverware at the end of each season. Colin feels that supporting the national team allows fans of other clubs to experience high-stakes football, as the national competitions often satisfy their wanderlust. Colin shared about a friend from Stornoway who tirelessly travels for both home and away matches.

He also emphasized the pride Scotland fans take in making an impact wherever they arrive. He reminisced about Euro 2024 in Cologne, where Scottish fans filled the streets, depleting the local beer supply while joyfully dancing in the rain. Ahead of this World Cup, FC Cologne even sent a message of good luck to the Scotland team and supporters.

The vibrant Scottish atmosphere has undoubtedly been felt in Boston, with local pubs enjoying a surge in patronage. The official Scotland House, typically referred to as The Anchor, and other venues such as The Haven, which Jason Waddleton opened after moving to Boston in 1998, have become hotspots. Waddleton expressed his excitement about the upcoming games having prepared heavily, ordering 150 kegs of Scottish lager, predicting they might sell out before Scotland’s match against Morocco on Friday.

“It has grown busier over the days, leading to nearly 1,000 fans filling our venue for the Haiti match,” he said, noting that beer sales had soared to St. Patrick’s Day levels in business. Another bar owner remarked on the unprecedented sales pace.

Waddleton anticipated an incredible atmosphere, particularly given the 28-year wait for many fans. “So many attendees are ready for this moment, with two generations missing out on World Cup participation.”

“Moreover, people take pride in showcasing their national identity, each sharing their unique stories,” he concluded. “This is who we are, where we hail from—expressed through every shared song like ‘Caledonia’. It’s a remarkable moment, and for the last 26 years, I’ve been telling this to the locals who are now witnessing it firsthand.”

Excitement is building for the Scottish community in Miami ahead of their upcoming match against Brazil next Wednesday. The iconic Clevelander South Beach hotel is set to embrace a tartan theme, but first, they must prepare for a matchup against Morocco on Friday. In Boston, Scots continue to explore, reconnect with friends, and engage in spirited discussions about lineup strategies for their next game ahead—the celebrations are far from over.

As Sunday unfolded at Fenway Park, Scotland fans enthusiastically performed their entire anthem repertoire during the seventh-inning stretch: “We’ll Be Coming (Down the Road),” “Super John McGinn,” “500 Miles,” “No Scotland, No Party,” followed by the stadium joining in for “Yes Sir, I Can Boogie.” A group of dedicated Scottish fans enjoyed their first experience at a baseball game, celebrating their second major tournament.

During a game moment, as a Texas Rangers player flied out to left field, a Scottish fan named John passionately exclaimed, “I f—ing love baseball—and Boston.” One can safely say, the affection is mutual between Boston and the Tartan Army.